Chart for drafting patterns for garments



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G. DRUMMOND. CHART FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS FOB, GARMENTS. No. 451,553.Patented May 5,1891.

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G. DRUMMOND. CHART FOR DRAPTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS.

No. 451,553. Patented May 5, 1891.

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CHART FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS. No. 451,553. Patented May5,1891.

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G. DRUMMOND. CHART FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS.

No. 451,553. Patented May 5,1891.

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GEORGE DRUMMOND, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

CHART FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR GAR MENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 451,553, dated May 5,1891.

Application filed August 9, 1889.

To ail whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE DRUMMOND, of the city of Philadelphia andState of Pennsylvania, have invented a certain new and usefulImprovement in Charts for Garment- Fitting; and I do hereby'declare thefollowing to be a full, clear, and exact description thereof, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawings or charts, forming part of thisspecification.

My invention has relation to charts for drafting ladies basques, waists,and other close-fitting garments 5 and it consists in charts scaled andconstructed as hereinafter particularly described, and claimed.

The respective measurements having been taken and registeredonto thepattern-sheet, the chart is removed, and the points indicated on thepattern-sheet are then connected and the proper form-lines drawn by theaid and means of a suitable drafting-instrument.

In drafting patterns fora dress-body I em-- ploy five charts and anysuitable drafting-instrumenta front chart, which represents one-half ofthe front of the body; an underarm chart, which represents the pieceimme diately under the arm forming up to the front; a side-body chart,which represents the side piece formed up to the under-arm piece; a backchart, which represents one-half of the back joined onto the side piece;and the sleeve chart, which represents the upper and under side of thesleeve.

I will now describe my invention, so that others skilled in the art towhich it appertains mayv make and use the same, reference being had tothe accompanyiny drawings, forming part of this specification.

Figure 1 represents the front chart. Fig. 2 represents the under-armchart. Fig. 3 represents the side-body chart. Fig. i represents the backchart. Fig. 5 represents the sleeve chart.

The charts are graded and scaled by a series of cross-numbers andcross-lines, particularly at the points where the several indicatingdots or points are to be laid off. Any even gradation or scale may beenployed. The series shown on the drawings of the charts are preferable.The charts are of a size corresponding to the measurements taken fromthe body and to the actual size of the pattern.

Serial No. 320,320. (No model.)

In the accompanying drawings, as a matter of reference and convenience,a pattern-line is drafted in heavy lines to a particular-sized form,which may be followed as a reference and illustration. The checker-boardcharts are cross-numbered, as shown in the drawings, and are preferablyperforated at each point of juncture of the lengthwise and latitudinallines as a matter of convenience. The charts represent the full lengthand depth of the pattern to be drafted. The paper upon which the patternis to be drafted is secured underneath the chart, and as eachmeasurement is taken the point of a pencil is inserted into theperforationsin the chart at the proper point indicated by thecross-numbers, accord ing to the measurement taken and the pointindicated 011 the pattern-paper below. All the points being thus laidonto the pattern-paper they are joined and given the proper lines andcurves by means of any suitable draftinginstrument.

Referring to Fig. 1, front chart,point or dot N0. 11 represents the neckin front, as indicated by the neck-measure line No. 11 for ordinaryforms. Line No. 11 is for slightly stooping forms, and line No. 11 forfull-stooping forms. Point or dot No. 12 represents the neck or shoulderline, as indicated by neck measure. Line No. 1 is for ordinary forms.Line No. 2 is for slightly-stooping forms, and line No. 3 is forfull-steeping forms. Point or dot No. 13 represents the length ofshoulder from point No. 12, line No. 1. Point or dot No. 14 representsthe inner portion of the arms eye to point indicated by the chestdepthand chest-line measures. When 11 is used, extend the point one-fourth ofan inch to the front. Then 11 is used, extend it one-half an inch to thefront. Point or dot No. 15 represents the arms eye immediately under thearm, as indicated by the chestdepth and bust-line measures. When No. 2line at point 12 is used, raise this one-fourth of an inch. lV-hen No. 3line is used, raise it one-half of an inch. Point or dot No. 21represents the bust-line in front, as indicated by the bust-depthmeasure at dark line for ordinary forms. Should the bust-line measure beone inch in excess of the chest-line measure, it will be one-fourth ofan inch to the front of dark line, and the bust measure Willbereducedonc'half of an inch at all other points of the bust-line. If two inchesin excess of the chest-line measure, it will be onehalf of an inch tothe front of the dark line, and the bust measure will be reduced oneinch at all other points of the bust-line. If three inches in excess ofthe chest-line measure, it will be three-fourths of an inch to the frontof the dark line, and the bust measure will be re duced one and one-halfinch at all other points of the bust-line. Point or dot No. 22represents the front depth from the center of the neck at back over theshoulder to waist-line in front, also the depth for the neck in front towaist-line in front, as indicated by the respective measures byfollowing the neckmeasure column of front-depth table. Point or dot No.23 represents the hip depth in front five inches below the waist-line.Pointer dot No. 24: represents the waist-line under the arm, asindicated by the waist depth to point in a line with the bust measure.\Vhen points 12 and 15 are raised for stooping forms, raise this tocorrespond. The darts are given in table by following the bust-measurecolumns to point showing the waist measure, and square to the left handthe allowance for each dart is shown. Point or dot No. 26 represents thehip-line at side in a line with the hip depth to point opposite the bustor waist measures. Point or dot A represents the front line of frontdart at waist-line. Point 0r dot 13 represents the back line of frontdart at waist-line. the top of front dart, as indicated by bust depthand bust measure. Pointor dotD represents the depth of front dartone-fourth of an inch to the right hand of A. Point or dot E representsthe front line of back dart at waist-line. Point or dot F represents theback line of back dart at waist-line. Point or dot G represents the topof back dart, as indicated by bust depth and bust measure. Point or dotH represents the depth of back dart one-half of an inch to the righthand of E.

Referring to Fig. 2, under-arm chart, point or dot No. 16 represents thefront part of the arms eye, as indicated by the chest depth. Point ordot No. 17 represents the upper part of the arms eye, as indicated bythe chest depth and bust measure. Point or dot No. represents thewaist-line in front, as indicated by the waist depth. Point or dot X0.98 represents the waist-line at back, as indicated by the waist depth topoint opposite the waist-line measure. Point or dot N 27 represents thehip depth in front. Point or dot No. 30 represents the hip depth at backto point indicated by waist or hip measures.

Referring to Fig. 3, side-body chart, point or dot No. 18 represents thefront part of the arms eye, as indicated by chest depth and bustmeasures. Point or dot No. 19 represents the upper part of the arms eye,as indicated by chest depth and bust measures. Point or dot No. 90represents the waist-line Point or dot C represents 1 in front to pointindicated by the back depth and waist measures. Point or dot No. 32represents the waist-line at back to point indicated by the back depthand waist measures. Point or dot No. 31 represents the hip depth infront to point indicated by the waist or hip measures. Point or dot No.3i represents the hip depth at back to pointindicated by the waistmeasure.

Referring to Fig. 1, back chart, point or dot No. 36 represents thecenter of neck at back for ordinary forms. N0. 36- is for mediumstoutforms, and No. 30 is for stout forms. \Vhcn No. 30 or 30 is used, theback depth 'at point No. s0 must be lowered to correspond.

Point or dot No. 0/ represents the neck at shoulder-line, as indicatedby neck measure. Line 37- is for stout forms. Point or dot N0. 38represents the length of shoulder from point 37 by following the linefrom the neck measure until in a line with the bust measure. Point ordot N 20 represents the lower portion of the arms eye, as indicated bychest depth and bust measures. Point or dot No. 39 represents the chestdepth at center of back. Point or dot N0. represents the waist-line infront, as indicated by back depth and point opposite the waist measure.Point or dot No. 40 represents the waist-line at center of the back, asindicated by the back depth. \Vhen this point is lowered, the waistlinemust slope from the under arm. Point or dot No. 35 represents the hipdepth at side to point indicated by waist or hip measures. Point or dotNo. 41 represents the hip depth at center of the back.

Referring to Fig. 5, sleeve chart, point or dot No. 1 represents theupper part of the arms eye resting on the shoulder, as indicated by thearms-eye measure. Line No. 1 gives the exact size of the arms eye. No. 1allows one inch extra for fullness. No. 1 allows two inches extra forfullness. Point or dot No. 2 represents the front part of the arms eyeof upper and under portions, as i11- dicated by the arms-eye measure.loint or dot 3 represents the back part of the arms eye of upperportion, as indicated by the arms-eye measure. Point or dot No. 1represents the back part of the arms eye of under portion, as indicatedby the armseye measure. Point or dot 5 represents the inner or underside of upper portion at elbowline, as indicated by length to elbow.Point or dot No. 5" represents the inner or under side of under portionat elbow-line, as indicated by length to elbow. Point or dot No. (3represents the elbow-line of under portion, as indicated by elbowmeasure. Point or dot No. 7 represents the elbowdine of upper portion,as indicated by elbow measure. Point or dot No. 8 represents the underside of upper portion at wrist-line, as indicated by sleeve length.Point or dot No. S represents the under side of under portion atwrist-line, as indicated by sleeve length. Point or dot No. 9 representsthe outside of under portion at wrist-line, as indicated bysleeve-length and hand measures. Point or dot No. 10 represents theoutside of upper portion at wristline, as indicated by sleeve-length andhand measures.

As herein described, the charts are preferably perforated at the pointof juncture of the latitudinal and longitudinal lines for the purpose ofconveniently transferring to the pattern sheet beneath the measurementstaken by introducing the point of the pencil; but I do not limit myselfto this means for transferring the measurements to be indicated by meansof the chart onto the patternsheet, as it might be done by interposing acarbon-sheet between the pattern and the chart or in other ways.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is

1. A chart for drafting garments, having a number of independent scalesconsisting of two numbered series of parallel lines, one seriesintersecting the other series, the scales being located in positionsapproximating the positions of the several points of measurement, andthe points of intersection of the several lines designating the exactpositions of the several points of measurement on any form, the chartbeing further provided at its front edge with a heavy line parallel withsaid edge to designate the bust-line in ordinary forms and with parallellines to meet the measurements of irregular forms, and being furtherprovided at its upper end with a series of parallel lines for the neckmeasure, one of said lines being heavy to designate 0rdinary forms, asspecified.

2. A chart for drafting garments, having a number of independent scalesconsisting of two numbered series of parallel lines, the one seriesintersecting the other series, the scales being locatedin positionsapproximating the positions of the several points of measurement and thepoints of intersection of the several lines designating the exactpositions of the several points of measurement of any form, the chartbeing further provided in its front section with a heavy line in frontor on the left-hand side to designate the bust-line for ordinary forms,with extra lines in front or on the left-hand side of the heavy lineproviding for cases of an excessive development of the bust in front andsealed for reducing the bust measure at other points corresponding tothe increase applied to the bust in front, provided, also, withneck-scales for ordinary forms and extra parallel lines for stoopingforms, and also provided with dart-scales giving the sizes of therespective darts to meet the variations of the bust and waistmeasurements, providing for a larger dart in front when the waist-lineis small in proportion to the bust-line, and vice versa, provided,further, with front-depth scale giving the respective front-depthmeasures and designating the waist-line in front, and further providedwith scales for adjusting the arms eye, as specified.

3. A chart for drafting sleeves, provided with dots 1, 1 and l at upperend, the dot 2 near the front edge, the dots 3 and lin rear of the dot2, indicating the arms eye, the dots 5, 5 6, and 7, indicating theelbow-line, and dots 8, 8 9, and 10 at lowest point, indicating thewrist-line and having a series of numbered lengthwise and latitudinallines designating the position of said dots, substantially as described.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 8th day of August,A. D. 1889.

GEORGE DRUMMOND. WVitnesses: i

HORACE PETTIT, W. G. GRIFFITH.

